On the radar: At the V&A, ‘On Hollywood,’ window popping

Three exhibitions, one in London and two in New York, look well worth a visit.
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Robert De Niro as Travis Bickle

Hollywood Costume,” which explores the central role costume design plays in cinema storytelling, is the autumn exhibition at London’s V&A Museum. With more than 100 of the most iconic movie costumes from 1912-2012, the show is an opportunity to see the clothes worn by characters such as Dorothy Gale, Indiana Jones, Scarlett O’Hara, Jack Sparrow, Holly Golightly and Darth Vader.
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Most of these clothes have never been publicly displayed and have never been seen beyond the studio archives, says the museum. The exhibition opens Oct. 20 and is scheduled to close on Jan. 27, 2013.
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And running at the V&A through Jan. 6, 2013, is another bit of sartorial fun: “Ballgowns: British Glamour Since 1950.”
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“On Hollywood” was shot in Kodachrome 64 color film.

On Hollywood,” an exhibition of color photographs by Lise Sarfati, continues through Oct. 13 at the Yossi Milo Gallery in New York, following a show earlier this year at the Rose Gallery in Los Angeles. Sarfati, who lives and works in Paris and Los Angeles, will have a solo show at Bibliothèque Nationale de France in 2014.
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“Tucson” 2011 by Lee Friedlander

For “On Hollywood,” Sarfati shot women on street corners, sidewalks, parking lots and corner stores, using Kodachrome 64 color film, which was used for Hollywood movies of the 1940s. Says the gallery: “The Technicolor quality of the film stock presents the unglamorous subjects and locations as a heightened reality tinged with old Hollywood artifice.”#

Mannequin – images by photographer Lee Friedlander – will open Oct. 26 at the Pace/MacGill Gallery in New York, following an earlier show at San Francisco’s Fraenkel Gallery. Friedlander shot images of store windows in U.S. cities over the last several years. You can see a selection of New York shots here. The work will be displayed through Dec. 22. Born in 1934, Friedlander has sustained an influential body of work over five decades.
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Robert de Niro image from “Taxi Driver,” 1976. Costume designed by Ruth Morley. Columbia/The Kobal Collection
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‘Cape Fear’ shows Mitchum at his most menacing, most noir

Cape Fear/1962/Universal Pictures/105 min.

From the moment Robert Mitchum appears in “Cape Fear” with his slow swagger, Southern drawl and serious mean spirit, there’s no doubt he’s a tour-de-force bad guy. In fact, he is one of cinema’s greatest psychos. His character Max Cady ranks No. 28 on the American Film Institute’s list of the top 50 villains of all time.

Gregory Peck

The plot is straightforward but it’s a story that simmers with tension. Ex-con Max Cady puts the blame for his recent stint in jail squarely on the man who testified against him: Sam Bowden (Gregory Peck, who also helped produce), a prominent lawyer in a small Southern town. Seeking revenge for the eight years he spent behind bars, Cady launches a campaign of terror against Bowden and his family that culminates in a life-and-death struggle in a moonlit swamp.

The 1962 film, still chilling today, had all the ingredients for success: accomplished director J. Lee Thompson (who also made Peck’s 1962 adventure classic, “The Guns of Navarone”), a near-perfect cast, top-notch material (James R. Webb’s screenplay is based on John D. MacDonald’s novel “The Executioners”), a Bernard Herrmann score, cinematography by Sam Leavitt, art direction by Robert Boyle and editing by George Tomasini.

Herrmann, Boyle and Tomasini were frequent collaborators with Alfred Hitchcock. Of shooting in black and white, director Thompson said, “I thought the black and the shadows would enhance the story and color might spoil it.”

The cast includes TV comedienne Polly Bergen as Sam’s wife Peggy, Lori Martin as their daughter, Martin Balsam (“Psycho’s” ill-fated detective) as police chief Mark Dutton, Telly Savalas as gumshoe Charlie Sievers and Barrie Chase as Diane, a goodtime girl victimized by Cady.

To Peck’s credit, he understood that Mitchum’s character was more dynamic than steadfast and respectable Sam Bowden. Mitchum makes even a quick line, such as, “You sweatin’ a little, huh counselor?” glow with burning malice.

Thompson says in the making-of feature in the DVD, “Greg was conscious the whole time that the villain was the colorful part and that Mitchum was playing it beautifully. And he let him run with it. … The way [Peck] played the part and the strength he showed, it became a very good battle between the two men. It was wonderful teamwork between the two.”

Thompson also recalls the way Mitchum embraced the role. “This part is a drunk, a rapist and a violent man, and I live my parts,” Mitchum told him. “It was sort of a warning that we might have some stormy passages during the making of the film … and we did have some stormy passages,” laughs Thompson. [Read more...]